Introduction – Chapter 1 – Chapter 2 – Chapter 3 – Chapter 4 – Summary
Meeting the General, COSVN Headquarters and Cu Chi tunnels
General Nguyen Minh Long
Basically a travel day, we drive back to Da Nang, say our good byes to Phong, Ngoc and Kim, and board a plane for our flight back to Saigon. I guess Dave Arnold is a fast learner, because he picked up on the Vietnamese culture quick. As we were bidding The Nguyen family farewell, out of nowhere Dave grabs Phong and plants a big one on him, right on the kisser. No doubt outdoing the one ole Big Dave got the night before from the little Vietnamese guy.
Phong’s arms flying every which way, as he tried to free himself, he was helpless. Dave is a pretty big man and he had a man hold on Phong. I hear all the commotion, turn to see, and fell out laughing along with our group. Phong, being the sport he is, started laughing in total disbelief. He took it in stride as he quickly gathered everyone and guided us to the secured area before this nightmare could repeat itself. That was a funny one Dave. I’m glad you thought of it and not me.
With a change in our plans, we have a very interesting meeting with a Vietnamese General. General Nguyen Minh Long, former commander of 333rd Regiment 324B Division in 1966. A very neat set up, with two nice long wooden tables on either side of the room, the General and his men are on one side, and we are seated on the other. There are plates of fruit and bottles of water in front of each seat. The General is a small but solid man that speaks clearly, with authority.
I could not understand a word, but we had an interpreter to translate for us. This General impressively introduces his staff, consisting of Colonels and Majors from various former NVA units. Mike introduces our team; then, he and the general review a map to show each other were they were in ‘66. I look across the table, and think that these Vietnamese men probably harbor the same burdens of war as the Marines at my table.
The Meeting
I wondered, how many Marine deaths they were responsible for, and I’m sure they were thinking in the same lines looking back at Mike, Jerry and Ski. The General makes a second speech about fighting and war, he is very adamant for us to enjoy the fruit placed before us. He spoke highly of the training and skills of the American military.
We took a few pictures, shook hands, and got ready to leave. As we started to depart, I watched as the General goes over to Dave Arnold, and reaches out to shake with one hand, puts his other hand on Dave’s heart, and spoke to him in a low emotional tone. I don’t know what he said, but with his expressions I believe he was telling Dave how sorry he was for his loss. After an intriguing visit with the General, we go back to the Rex hotel. With everyone a bit tired, we each go our own way for a little rest and relaxation. Paul and I head for the rooftop.
Jerry and Ski decide to stay in Saigon and sightsee. Mike, Paul, Dave and I travel to the COSVN Headquarters on the Cambodian boarder, where points of interest are brought to our attention. It was amazing to see how the Vietnamese moved such a large body of people around, being virtually undetected. I see for the first time the size of hole, a 500 lb bomb leaves, after being dropped from a B52 aircraft. This hole is big enough to drive 4 or 5 regular size pickup trucks off into, and never see them again.
Off to the Chu Chi tunnels to see how the Vietnamese moved around beneath the earth, as we know it. These tunnels were constructed during the war against the French, after World War II, and the construction continued when the Americans arrived. The Chu Chi tunnel is about 250km (155 miles) long and it stretches to the Cambodian border in the east and into Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) in the south. One of the tunnels, I’m told, was made larger, so normal-sized guys could experience crawling through it. There is one area left untouched, so you can see exactly how small it really was. Mike and I made it all the way through the three levels.
What an experience!
The tour guides demonstrate how the Vietnamese men and women lived, attacked and survived living underground. There were a lot of displays, and the ones I found most interesting were the booby traps. Each trap was interactive so you could see how it was put together and operated. I was in total amazement at the interconnecting and architectural design of these tunnels. We headed back to the hotel, to link up with Jerry and Ski for a beer and enjoy the nightly show on top of the REX.
This is a complete down day, on your own to sight see around Saigon or rest. Paul and I do exactly that. Paul takes a scooter ride deep into Saigon, where not too many 6 ft. tall long haired white skin men have been, probably none. He said there were a lot of curious looks, but he was welcomed everywhere he went. He enjoyed the culture and food.
I went shopping at a big outside tent market, a very fulfilling experience. I meet a Vietnamese couple that helped to purchase the cutest little outfits for my grand daughter’s. I can’t remember this couples names, but it doesn’t matter because, I probably couldn’t pronounce them anyway. I called him Fred, and her Wilma, (you can guess).
They spoke broken English, but enough to communicate. I’m getting hungry, and ask them to join me in finding something to eat. Fred asked if I enjoyed pizza, and off we go to a pizza house. This place is packed, and it appeared to be like a US restaurant. It’s new and about 3 stories tall; very nice, but the music was so loud and the cigarette smoke is so thick that I almost got lost. We go to the top floor. Thank God, the air was cleaner and a bit quieter. I guess I need to face it: I’m getting old. Anyway, I order a pizza by the picture on the menu. I didn’t want any more warm beer, so I order water. They order Pepsi on ice.
Man, I want some of that ice, but I know better, so warm water it is. I was asked after returning home, why didn’t I want any ice? The water over there, like in most third world countries, has a lot of bacteria not common to our immune system. It will make you ill and give you Montezuma’s revenge in a heart beat, and of course the ice is made from water, Biology 101. Freezing will not kill bacteria, only put it into hibernation.
Our entourage, last night together.
OK, the pizza comes out, and you know how people when kidding say, “Hold the anchovies.” Well, let me tell you about this. It was covered with a real thick cheese, just like in the picture, except underneath all that cheese was about 40 different sea creatures.
The chef held the anchovies but left everything else in the ocean on there, I’m pretty sure they were cooked, because nothing was moving. I didn’t see all that on the menu picture. I took a slice, and as I start to bite into it, over half of the little guys slide off onto the table. It’s ok, no harm done. This gave me the excuse to just eat the rice noodle crust and cheese. Wilma thought it was pretty funny, as she and ole Fred tore up the rest of the sea creature pizza pie. We conversed about the USA, they were very curious about old TV shows. After a short while, I parted with my new friends, and head back to the REX.
Our “I” 3/5 entourage was to meet later that night for one last dinner together on top of the REX. There is a nightly show, big band style, very entertaining.
Ski, Mike and Jerry before leaving.
We say our goodbyes to Jerry, Ski and Dave as they start their journey for home. Thank God, Dave didn’t try to exercise his new Vietnamese culture of kissing when parting ways tonight. I thought about this as everyone is exchanging hand shakes and stood back to let Paul and Mike say goodbye, first. I will miss these guys. We had a lot of laughs together on this trip.
NOTE: I don’t think, this men kissing when parting thing, is a part of Vietnamese culture. I think the Vietnamese guy in Chu Lai liked ole Big Dave. Maybe Dave gave out the wrong impressions when he sat with those guys pretty much the entire night. HA ha-ha. It’s OK Dave. What goes on in Vietnam stays in Vietnam, right? Geez, I’m too funny. Somebody stop me.
Paul and I see Mike, Chris and Kaitlyn off this morning. It’s a bit of a downer. Paul and I are having so much fun hanging with this family. I know Paul will miss his “Best new friend Kaitlyn”. They hit it right off, becoming buds quick, probably because of the same mentality and thought process. The trip is winding down now with everyone going home. It looks like the top of the Rex is in order. Paul and I spend pretty much the whole day on top of the Rex.
There are a lot of tour groups coming and going this day. We met several interesting people from England, Australia and the good ole USA. A bizarre rainstorm pops up, with some of that sideways rain, but everyone goes right on talking and drinking. It was Eat, Drink be Merry and wet. No Worries mate!
Paul and I take a full day’s trip into the Mekong Delta. Living and shopping on the waterways appears to be a very bizarre lifestyle. We visit several businesses, including one that has an active rice whisky still with a fire underneath. We sample the liquor. Oh my god! Being a whisky connoisseur, I take a big gulp (It’s “5 o’clock somewhere,” right?), and it’s like right out of a three stooges movie. I stomp, jump, and steam comes out of my ears until it hits bottom. Wow!!!! Hmm, hmm, I think I’ll have another one, please.
Sampan on the Mekong
Then, we take an excursion in a little canoe-type boat called a “Sampan.” Not much of a bass rig. A little guy stands on the aft deck with these long paddles and in a crisscross fashion rows the sampan through a densely jungled channel as we are looking at the river wildlife, maybe to see an anaconda.
After re-boarding our big boat, we float through a really wide channel to stop for a great lunch at a 3rd generation restaurant, let me guess, something with rice and fish, right? Actually lunch was really good. They raise their fish in a little pond right there; catch ‘em, fry ‘em whole and serve ‘em up. It goes real good with a couple of Huda beers. Actually, using chopsticks you pull off a piece of fish meat and place it with a slice of pineapple and cucumber on thin rice paper, wrap it up and eat it. Awesome good!
Rice Whiskey Still
We get back on the river, stop off at a brick factory, and see a coffin manufacture. On the way, we grab a coconut, knock a hole in it, and enjoy the drink as we head back to the dock for our trip back to Saigon.
It’s hard to explain, this way of life unless you see it. All the traffic on the waterways: Big boats full of fresh produce or rice; medium size boats all around; little sampans with half of it missing; people haggling; kids swimming; women washing cloths and/or dishes; and ferry boats full of people shuttling back and forth. Everything moving all the time. Yet it seems so easy to live here. I think it’s because everything in life is so simple here.
Again that night, Paul and I stay for the entertainment on top of the Rex. There was this one entertainer from South America that looks and sings like Sammy Davis, Jr. I guess one could call him a Sammy Davis Jr. impersonator. Paul and I would always converse with our new friend “South American Sammy” as he was getting ready for his show, and of course Paul is going to buy him a beer.
As a matter of fact I’m not for sure if there wasn’t anyone at the Rex that Paul didn’t buy a beer or at least offer to buy one. One afternoon S.A. Sammy calls Paul and me over to the bar and says “You guys have more performances here than I do and this is my full time gig.” The waiters have seen us so often they automatically bring our drink of preference without us asking.
These guys and girls really worked hard to make us happy. Paul and I would reciprocate by leaving good-sized tips. It was so much fun at the Rex! We didn’t see any reason to go to anywhere else.
South American Sammy
Waiters and Honchos
Our last day, we’re not done yet! We start off by going to the Saigon Country Club for a round of golf. It didn’t quite work out, as we would have liked. A little trouble with the dress code, but the tour around this humongous country club was neat. A quick phone call to Ngoc, and everything was good. Paul and I go for a little more sight seeing around Saigon before getting our things packed and heading back to the good ole USA. Unfortunately, the plane doesn’t leave until 11pm.
NOTE: Today is my wife’s birthday, and I’m saddened that I’m not at home to celebrate this important day with her. The upside is that I’ve brought her some beautiful handmade Vietnamese jewelry that I can guarantee no one in Redfield, Arkansas will have.
